Spain - Week 2

Spain - Week 2

Hola Amigos

Thanks for all your messages and emails and Facebook responses to the last blog and photos. Your comments etc are greatly appreciated. Seems like Spain is on the bucket list for quite a few of you. To those who are thinking about it - do it, we certainly recommend it as a destination and a country of vastness and variety.

It’s also so lovely to catch up on who is doing what, where and when. Hope life is being kind to you and that your enjoying every minute of it.

Here in the sunny Sierra Mountains of Andalusia life is settling into a quasi routine and we are feeling much more comfortable in our immediate surroundings. So much so, that we are now venturing further afield, braving the Spanish drivers on the incredibly steep winding roads that link the mountain villages. Now there’s a challenge! Meeting a bus in the middle of the road on a blind switch back with a 200 metre drop on one side (without a guard rail) and a cliff on the other or Volker trying to negotiate a round about on the wrong side of the road gets the adrenaline pumping. Other than these types of cold sweat inducing incidents, we have had a wonderful time immersing ourselves into the local culture.

Just love being able to get along to the markets. 1st one we went to was the one held twice a month in Cadiar the closest town to where we are, then another, held every Thursday a bit further afield at Orgiva. We were shown the ropes and direction by one of our neighbours who lives about 1.5 km down the road. Thanks Belinda. Wandering through the stalls spread up and down the narrow streets is a treat in any country and here is no exception. The hustle and bustle, the lively banter, colourful stalls, exotic smells etc make for a wonderful day out especially when combined with a great meal at a local restaurante at $12 AUD for a three course lunch including a drink.

On one of these outings, after stocking up on goodies, we decided to check out the deal with a pilgrimage for the Virgin of the Snow which involved climbing up the highest peak in mainland Spain (the highest is out on the Canary Island of Tenerife) which rises up to 3,482 above sea level to attend a mass. So off we went, winding our way through the mountains to the small town of Capileira which is one of the highest villages in Spain apparently. It sits on the edge of the Sierra Nevada National Park which is the Spanish mecca for walkers, mountain bikers and skiing. Once we had found it, got the feel of it and stared up at the mountain at close range (with much trepidation) we decided to give it a go in a few days time.

On the way back “home” we called into the small mountain village of Portugos that is renowned for it’s spring that emits a natural fizz mineral water whose properties are supposed to be very good for ones well being. A chapel has been erected over the spring and people come to fill containers of the very metallic tasting water while blessing themselves. But here’s the good bit - right across the road from the church, free spirited individuals or hippies if you like have set up stalls selling souvenirs, jewellery, leather work, bags of marijuana in various sizes and bongs to suit all occasions. Not even an attempt to do it under the counter.

Leaving home in the dark a few days later to drive over to the trek / mass was another challenge on these roads. Especially after warnings of chance meetings with wild pigs on the roads. But we finally got there and to our pleasant surprise, the National Parks Authority had opened gates to allow pilgrims to drive up a bit higher, thus reducing the climb. What a bonus THAT proved to be. Usually the walk takes anywhere from about 8 hours to 2 days depending where one starts from, with many people using the refugios (small shelters) to camp over night. These would be a life saver when the snow starts falling. We were pulled up by a young lass directing traffic, shown where to park and it began. We were up at about 2,300 metres and the 1st thing one noticed was the thinner air which initially gave a light headed feeling.

A large contingent of beautiful horses (and their riders) were also making the journey up which added a very traditional element to the whole occasion. Pilgrims of all ages were making the 2-3 hour walk to the summit and it was wonderful to be apart of it all as we were greeted by many "hola amigos” along the way. The very young and the category we belong to (the not so young), book ended the majority category of “the fit, young and beautiful" walkers, some who were very fit indeed as these extremists chose to jog up despite the thinning air. Ages ranged from about 5 - 75 we estimated.

As we rose up higher, we caught a glimpse through the haze of the Moroccan coast on the other side of the Mediterranean which just blew us away. We both had a few light headed moments as we neared the summit, but finally got there after 2.5 hours of walking and to stand on the summit with about 500 others, about 70 or so horses and mules, as well as various breeds of dogs tearing about was an amazing experience. The whole of the Sierra Nevada mountains were laid out below us and stretched away in all directions. A few isolated patches of snow were still clinging to the sides of the taller peaks, creating an incredible contrast to the bare, barren rocky ground. The vastness was the thing that was so hard to grasp. It just went on and on forever until it disappeared into the haze.

The whole scene was so unbelievably surreal. Maybe it was the thin air, maybe it was the religious significance or maybe it was just what it was - being there, but being a part this cultural event that has been held for over 100 years, having slogged it out for 2.5 hours, being up at this altitude and surrounded by some of the most powerful mountain scenery we have ever seen was an emotionally charged experience. Phil was not the only one with a tear in her eye, touched by the incredible beauty, the devoutness of their faith and being part of a very old tradition. I think everyone who had got there was experiencing their own emotions in their own way as many a person broke away from the crowd for a quiet moment to stare out into the void.

The mass began with the Priest and his alter boys/men competing for audio attention with the wind, squealing and kicking horses, as well as barking and snarling dogs. The majority of attendees knew the drill and many were kneeling on the hard, sharp rocky slopes before the statue of the Madonna and baby Jesus who had been transported up on the back of a mule in a large box. The alter was a small table that held the usual accompaniments required to conduct mass and communion had also been carted up on mules. A bit basic it may have been when compared to the great cathedrals of Europe, but the fervour displayed by the priest and the pilgrims was quite moving in this most amazing place of worship.

People were building little cairns of stones which kept getting added to, so we both added our own and gave our thoughts to our loved ones who mean so much to us.

Another one of those unintended opportunities that just comes up out of the blue was added to our travel CV. Once again - an open mind had led us to something quite out of our comfort zone and had enabled us to witness yet another cultural aspect so different from our own. It’s these things that makes travel to new horizons such an amazing experience.

Interspersed with the above, we had some great rides through the hills on the beautiful Blanco, visited a cork tree plantation from where we could see the blue Mediterranean, met our neighbours Rogelio, Anna and their kids Rochy and Estelle, drank some great local wines, ate divine local specialities in small roadside tavernas, etc etc and just absorbed ourselves into Andalusia. What more can be said other than that’s why we came!

Lots of love and best wishes to you all for a great week ahead.

Cheers

Phil & Volker